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Discover Gardening

Would you like to know more about Pruning, Pest & Diseases & Grow Your Own?

We have the venue & the expertise.

Come join our 6 wks Discover Gardening Course at Garden Creations Garden Centre on Monday 22nd February 2010.

Contact Claire/Ann during working hours for detail discover gardening application form.

Jobs for October

Tie up climbing plants before winter winds.

If weather permits, plant container-grown trees and shrubs.

Cover ponds with a net to keep out fallen leaves.

Plant Spring flowering bulbs.

Autumn Tidy Up

For many gardeners the autumn tidy-up can be a busier time of year than spring. It’s now time to tidy up pots and window boxes and replant with winter bedding. One autumn job that takes time, is the arduous task of lifting leaves. With autumn winds, leaves start to fall leaving the garden untidy and causing problems not only to the lawn area but also to low growing plants and the pond.

Dead leaves on the lawn can pose a problem. Leaves smother the grass by cutting off light and the weight of wet leaves presses down on the grass. In a short time the grass turns yellow and dies back. If the leaves are not removed this can leave bare patches and if there is a complete carpet of leaves weeds and moss can invade. Where the cover is not complete the grass struggles between the leaves and survives but is much weaker. Apart from the lack of light and the smothering effect of the leaves, toxins released by the rotting leaves can affect grass growth.

With low-growing plants leaves can also be a problem. Dead leaves fall and start to gather on top of the plant smothering growth and falling down into the centre of them. As the leaves start to decay they rot off the existing plant leaves and new growth. Eventually the plant stems start to rot killing off the plant. When tidying up bed areas, were possible lift off the dead leaves from the top of the plant and remove those which become lodged down in the stems.

The pond is another area of the garden in which dead leaves can cause problems. If dead leaves are allowed to accumulate in the water it will soon turn rank. This in turn reduces oxygen. Oxygen is needed by both pond plants and fish to survive. Pond nets are helpful and should be used over the autumn and winter, collecting dead leaves and wind blown debris.

Some gardeners will have invested in a leaf vacuum or blower but most of us will have to make do with a leaf rake and lots of elbow grease. If you have a gardener shredder you can use it to break up tougher leaves e.g. sycamore. This helps to speed up the decaying process.

Don’t forget you can collect your dead leaves and place in a strong black bin liner. They will decay over a period of a year to a year and a half making a lovely crumbly soil conditioner.

Plant Daffodils for Spring Colour

Daffodils are the most adaptable of all flowers but vary greatly in size, shape and colours including many variations of yellow, white, orange, pink, apricot or red in both early and late flowering varieties. There are perfect for woodland areas, bedding schemes, tubs, borders, rockeries and window boxes alike.

Exceptional Value
A daffodil, like a tulip, has a flower already formed inside the bulb but unlike most bulbs, it is possible for more than one flower to be inside. They are sold as ’rounds’ or ‘double-nosed’, the later producing two stems and flowers. The less expensive ’rounds’ are in no way inferior, indeed all daffodils bulbs are exceptional value for money as they propagate themselves by division with most yielding a 50-70% increase within a year. The skin or tunic should be clean, light brown and smooth and the bulb quite firm when the base is gently pressed with the pad of the thumb.

Botanically speaking
The trumpet-shaped types are commonly referred to as daffodils, while the shorted cupped varieties are known as Narcissi but botanically speaking all belong to the genus of Narcissus.

Endless uses
In early Spring, an area of rough grass or a lawn can be brought to life with clumps of daffodils or Narcissus. A mixture of yellows, creams and whites will give a very natural effect and the clumps will eventually spread to cover a much wider area. Remember, however, to think carefully before planting the bulbs as you won’t be able to mow the grass around the bulbs for at least six weeks after flowering, so the area will look untidy during this time. If the bulbs leaves are removed earlier, the bulbs will become weak and eventually die. Make sure to feed the bulbs every year after flowering with Sulphate of Potash, to ensure a fine display the following year.

Golden drifts
It is not only grassy areas that Daffodils and Narcissi can be naturalized, they can also make a handsome show when left to themselves in random drifts in beds and borders, forming a golden carpet between the surrounding plants. Use them in less formal areas of the garden where the leaves can be allowed to die down naturally without spoiling the overall effect.

Planting and feeding
Daffodils are greedy so a few weeks before planting dig in well-rotted manure or garden compost and at planting time add some bonemeal to the planting hole. There is a new food of bulbs called Bulb Boost that is high in potassium, helping to produce strong flowers. Plant the bulbs twice their depth making sure that the point of the bulb is facing upwards and if planting in clumps make use that the bulbs are not touching each other in the planting hole. Always water the area well after planting to ensure the soil is moist right down to the bulbs. Again it is important not to cut the leaves off for at least six weeks after flowering as the bulb stores its food in the bulb for the following year and a top-dressing of Sulphate of Potash is beneficial after flowering to ensure good flowers the following year.

Overcrowding
Daffodils and Narcissi can become over crowded so it is a good idea to lift and divide the clumps every three to five years in summer to ensure flowering. Carefully remove the soil until you find a clump of bulbs, trying not to damage any of them. Lift the clump and gently tease it apart into individual bulbs, leaving some of the tiny bulbs in small groups, which can be planted together. Dig over the soil adding a little Bulb Boost or bonemeal and space out the bulbs, 5cm (2ins) apart, then plant them twice their depth.

Don’t forget

* Daffodils look best when planted in wooded areas or at the edge of the lawns where this facilitates mowing without disturbing the daffodils growth.
* Avoid planting in long straight lines, bulbs look better set in clumps.
* If you cannot plant bulbs as soon as you buy them, open the bag to admit air and place them in a cool well ventilated location.
* Deadheading, where possible, helps the bulb to build up the necessary nutrients for the following years growth.
* Consider scented varieties for window boxes, patio containers and situations close to the house.
* Choose mini daffodils for early colour in rock gardens and window boxes.
* When planting in containers, keep compost moist to prevent flower buds going blind but never over-water to the point of saturation.

Is There Something Eating Your Lawn?

Is your lawn looking a little worst for wear with dead patches of straw-like grass appearing in areas for no apparent reason. Leatherjacks are probably the cause and now is the time to spray.

Leatherjacks are the larval stage of crane flies, most commonly known as Daddy-Long-Legs. The larvae or grubs are greyish in colour without obvious heads and can be up to 45mm long. The damage they do is similar to that of the Chafer grubs with yellowing of lawns and killing of the turf roots. As this summer was so wet and warm they were quite active this season.

The grub can be found in greatest numbers in newly reseeded lawns, damp soils and heavier clays and they have an enormous appetite for those young roots of the lawn that you have been carefully nurturing over the summer months.

Leatherjacks are the larvae of an insect belonging to the family Tipulidae and are members of the true flies (order: Diptera).

Life Cycle

Late summer/early autumn
Adult Crane flies emerge from the soil to mate and each female then lay up to 300 eggs onto the lawn. Two weeks later the eggs hatch and the larvae ( Leatherjacks) begin feeding on the roots and stems just below the surface of the soil.

Winter
The larvae may remain dormant in the soil throughout the coldest months but they resume feeding when soil temperatures begin to increase in spring.

Late spring/early summer
Lawn damage becomes most noticeable as the larvae grow quickly and continue to eat steadily. They can grow up to 5cm (2inches) long.

June to August
The Leatherjacks become fully mature by June, becoming inactive and pupating in August just under the surface of the lawn to emerge as adult Crane Flies thus beginning the cycle again.

These root-chewing grubs can ruin your lawn. Even more damage can be caused by birds and wild animals when they probe and loosen the lawn to feed on them.

Control.
Up until recently there was just one product that was available in large quantities, perfect for those of us that had larger lawn but recently a new product is available for those of us with smaller lawns. This product Provado Lawn Grub Killer is very easy to use. There is no need to spray or buy special applicators. Simply mix in a watering can and water on. It must be applied on a dry calm day when the soil is slightly moist and children and pets need not be excluded from treated areas once dry.

Pests and Diseases on Roses

Roses are very tolerant plants but if they are not taken care of they become spindly and unattractive, producing few if any flowers. Neglected roses are also more susceptible to pests and diseases, especially when they are also being grown in the wrong place. If pests attack roses, it may be because they are not properly looked after and heavy prolonged rain can also cause fungal diseases and this in turn makes roses more vulnerable to pests.

Diseases
If roses are not properly looked after they become susceptible to diseases and pests. Heavy prolonged rain plus humid conditions can also cause fungal diseases.

Mildew. Mildew is a fungal disease that affects the stems, buds and leaves of roses. It appears like a covering of white dust and roses are more prone to it if they are over-fed or left to dry out in dry weather. Roses must be sprayed with a fungicide and if mildew is very bad, the affected areas must be cut out.

Blackspot. Leaves are covered in round brown or black spots and fall prematurely. Collect and dispose of all affected leaves but don’t put them it the compost bin as the fungus will only be spread around the garden. Feed and mulch the roses regularly and if the black spot is very bad spray with a fungicide.

Rust. Yellow swelling on the undersides of the leaves, turning black in autumn or leaves falling prematurely are the symptoms of Rust. It can be prevented by mulching well, picking up fallen leaves to prevent further infection or spray with a fungicide.

Pests
Pests are much easier to identify than diseases and the majority of them are clearly visible on leaves, flowers and fruit. With a few exceptions they are also easier to control than diseases.

Aphids - These are black, green or reddish insects that damage the leaves, buds and young shoots of roses and they leave a sticky secretion on the leaves. Lavender, marigolds, nasturtiums and cress are all believed to repel aphids when planted underneath roses. Aphids can be dislodged by simply spraying them with a powerful jet of water, spraying with a solution of washing-up liquid or if infection is very bad it is essential to spray with an insecticide.

Caterpillars - Most caterpillars eat holes in the leaves and in severe infestation they may even defoliate them. You should open curled leaves and investigate the contents of webbing to see if caterpillars are the cause. If caterpillars are few and not stripping foliage rapidly, they can usually be controlled by hand picking. Where they are present in large numbers then an insecticide will have to be used.

Earwigs - These brown insects are normally not seen during the day as they feed at night. They shred the leaves and flowers of roses although they also eat some aphids so they are not always a huge problem. They can be trapped with straw stuffed into inverted pots and supported on a cane among the plants.

Whitefly - Whiteflies are tiny white moths, often rising in a cloud-like dust when the plant is disturbed. They will be found on the young shoots of roses but they are not as easy to control as greenfly and blackfly as their life cycle in very complicated and if they become a problem the use of an insecticide is the only solution.

You may be doing all you can, planting your roses in the best position, choosing disease-resistant varieties and watering and feeding them properly but if they are still suffering from pests and diseases you will need to take positive action. For organic or chemical control for these pests and diseases contact the staff at Garden Creation Garden Centre.

Jobs of the week
* Begin to sow seeds of summer bedding in seed trays.
* Apply slug control around emerging lupins, hostas delphiniums and other susceptible plants.
* Prune roses and spray with a pest and disease control.
* Begin to feed indoor plants and repot if necessary.

Dazzling Dahlias.

Dazzling Dahlias
Dahlias flower from mid summer until the first frosts of autumn, providing bright colour in the garden for several months. All are frost tender and therefore need to be lifted and protected from the frost. They can be grown in most soil types, providing they are well drained and they prefer a sunny site.

Dahlia flowerheads have a diversity of petal forms in a wide range of colours, from white to rich yellow through pinks, reds and purples. Dahlias are classified according to the size and form of their flowerheads. Single, Water Lily, Ball, Pompom and Cactus are just a few of the types available.

Dahlias thrive in well-drained, fertile soil. They are greedy feeders so dig in plenty of farmyard manure or homemade compost and add bonemeal when planting. They can be planted as pot grown plants, as dormant tubers or as rooted cuttings from tubers. Remember these plants cannot be planted outside until all risk of frost is over.

Feeding
Four to six weeks after planting feed with a high nitrogen and potash fertilizer, either in granular form or by weekly applications of liquid fertilizer as a root or foliar feed. As flower buds develop, extra potash may be added to give good strong stems and strong flower colour. The tubers develop during late summer and early autumn so a feed of Sulphate of Potash is recommended but avoid contact with leaves and stems as this may cause scorch.

Pests and diseases

Dahlias are affected by Aphids, Earwigs, Red Spider Mites and Slugs.

Aphids - Leaves are often left sticky and the new growth will become limp. Aphids breed very quickly so they need to be controlled quickly. There are a variety of sprays available but try to use an organic one if possible and encourage ladybirds into the garden.

Earwigs - Young leaves and flowers are eaten and these pests can be controlled by placing inverted pots stuffed with straw, on canes among the plants. The earwigs use these daytime shelters from where they can be removed and destroyed. There is also an organic powder available.

Red Spider Mite - Leaves become dull on affected plants and leaves may fall prematurely. A fine silk webbing may also cover the plant. The cause is Red Spider mite and it is very difficult to control. A spray will have to be used but if the plant is very badly affected it will have to be lifted and burned.

Slugs - Slugs will rasp holes in the leaves and where are many ways to control them from placing containers filled with beer around the base of the plants to using salt or using slug pellets. You may use whatever method you prefer but there is one thing for sure, some type of control is necessary as these little pests will destroy your dahlias in one night.

Lifting and storing - When the foliage has been blackened by the first frost in autumn, trim back the stems to about 15cms (6ins). Carefully lift and clean the tubers of soil and leave to dry on old newspapers in a frost free area. After a few weeks, trim off any fine roots and treat the tubers with a fungicide. Place them upside down for a few more weeks to ensure there is no more moisture present. Label and pack them away in wooden boxes in vermiculate, coir or other similar medium and store in a dry, frost free area. Inspect regularly during the winter and if any rot or mildew is present cut it out with a clean sharp knife and dust with a fungicide.

If dahlias are stored correctly many plants can be kept for years providing months of dazzling colour throughout the summer and early autumn.

Summer containers

One of the most important jobs in the gardening calendar is preparing to fill your hanging baskets and tubs.  There are no boundaries to container growing which is why it has become so popular.  The only restrictions are on the size of the container but there is certainly no limit to the variety of pots and tubs - from terracotta, glazed, plastic, wicker, wooden, stone and new for 2009 is fibreglass.  Having chosen the type and size of pot or basket the next thing to decide on is the type of compost.

A good multi-purpose compost is one of quite a few types of compost available and it is the type of compost to use if you are going to feed your tubs and baskets with a liquid feed.  If you are like me however, and you forget when you have fed your baskets and tubs, then you can add a controlled release fertiliser and water gel to your multi-purpose compost.  Controlled released fertiliser is a granular fertiliser and each granule is enclosed in a polymer coating.  When the compost becomes moist during watering, water moves into the granule gradually forcing out the fertiliser.  This gradual displacement takes place over the growing season ensuring a consistent supply of nutrients for your plants.  The polymer structure will generally remain after the granule is empty.

Water gel or swell gel is another product available that can be added to multi-purpose to improve its moisture containing ability.  It comes in the form of dry crystals that are added to the compost and once it becomes wet it swells to absorb 400 times its own weight in water.  The plants roots are able to draw water from the crystals as they grow but it is still important to water your tubs and baskets regularly to replenish the gel.  Remember to follow the manufactures instruction when using watergel.

If this all sounds like hard work then there is a perfect solution.  Tub and basket compost has both watergel and a high potash feed incorporated into the compost.